We’re happy you’ve returned to our little slice of Hairadise. We’re just reaching to the peak of silk press season. Between special occasions with loved ones, the desire for versatility, and the cool (er, freezing cold) air that keeps roots from curling up, we’ve created a space to honor your hair’s integrity.
Here we don’t chase perfection. And we’re certainly not behind the idea of fitting in. A silk press doesn’t erase your original texture. Self expression through versatility. Also, it’s a seasonal check-in: assessing lengths, health and the dead ends that need to get cut.
This letter to you is rooted in the history and culture of the silk press, along with some wisdom to help your curls bounce back into their natural state.
What Is a Silk Press, Really?
A silk press delivers quiet confidence.
In simple terms, a silk press is a temporary heat-styling technique that smooths natural hair without permanently altering its curl pattern.
This is achieved without the use of chemicals so the hair structure remains in tact. So texture returns when water or moisture is added.
A proper silk press should feel lightweight, flowing with natural bounce and movement. And, it shouldn’t feel or look greasy, nor be stiff.
A Brief History of the Silk Press
According to Vivian Bens at Style Rave, a silk press is the modern evolution of the traditional press-and-curl. It’s roots trace back to the early 20th century when straightening hair with hot tools gained popularity within the Black community.
This new evolution of hair straightening became popular in the early 2010s as ‘naturals’ sought versatility without relaxers and chemicals, protecting coils and curls.
Silk Press vs. “Straightening” Hair
Let’s talk about the difference.
Relaxers, often referred to as perms, are permanent and aggressive, using chemicals to break the internal bonds of the hair. Over time it can weaken curl memory, prioritizing sleekness over hair health.
Silk Press (Intentional & Temporary):
A silk press is meant to work with the hair, not against it. When done correctly, it preserves curl pattern, supporting health, growth, and length retention. The results are temporary, lasting only until the hair is washed.
Here’s the steps I take to ensure a gorgeous silk press:
- Cleanse and Condition
- Detangle, then Section
- Prep
- Blowout
- Flat Iron
- Style and Finish
- Maintain
Keeping Hair Healthy During Silk Press Season
Deep Conditioning Masks
Consider this a non-negotiable. Hair masks should be used weekly or bi-weekly, focusing on moisture balance, elasticity, and strength. This keeps frizz at bay, and leaves strands looking and feeling silky.
Masks are able to go deeper into the core of the hair fiber. For added warmth and nourishment, external heat elements, like a hot towel, or hooded dryer can be introduced.
Lower the Temperature
Higher heat doesn’t offer better results. In fact, it may do more harm than good. Here, the Hair Huna encourages lower temps paired with slow, intentional passes.
In my experience, healthy hair does not require multiple passes at high temps. Instead, adjust the size of your sections based on hair density and texture.
Always Use a Heat Protectant
Heat protectant is a shield for your strands, protecting the integrity of your cuticles, reducing moisture loss and maintaining shine.
I prefer a lightweight, spray leave-in conditioner with built-in heat protectant.
Fewer products mean less buildup and hair that feels clean, not greasy.
Indirect Heat Is Your Bestie
How you blowout your hair is an important step in the silk press process. Indirect heat gently stretches the hair and also reduces flat iron dependence (lower temps and less passes).
With a diffuser nozzle attached to your blow dryer, stretch out small sections applying tension from a round or paddle brush.
Or, you can opt to put your hair in large rollers and sit under a hooded dryer. Either way, your hair should be completely dried with a heat that doesn’t directly press against the strands.
Make Your Silk Press Last
There’s benefits to wearing natural hair straight, especially in the winter. For me, that means fewer hair wash days, quicker mornings, and avoiding going into the frigid outdoors with wet hair.
That being said, avoid too many touch ups.
Here, we prioritize preservation over perfection. Your hair health comes first.
Use foam rollers at night to maintain movement and body. Or sleep with hair wrapped in a bonnet or a satin scarf. Applying dry shampoo before bed can also help to absorb excess oils overnight, leaving your scalp and strands refreshed in the morning.
Keeping the Silk Press Sacred
Consider this your sacred reminder to listen to your hair, especially during this season.
The goal is to maintain hair health, preserving natural texture even after heat styling.
Make space for your hair to rest in between, restoring moisture and elasticity through intentional hair rituals.
Your hair will tell you what it needs, as long as you’re willing to listen.
So tell me, how do you get your bounce back after a silk press?